Alexander McQueen
Daniella Kallmeyer: Moda Operandi
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You may remember her from The Fashion Show, a Project Runway-like reality series that aired on Bravo with hosts Issac Mizrahi and Kelly Rowland. While America voted for "cookie cutter" designer Anna McCraney, the judges panel (comprised of Mizrahi, Rowland, and Senior Vice President of IMG Fashion, Fern Mallis) voted for Daniella Kallmeyer, bestowing upon her the award for Designer's Choice, for her exquisitely executed garments. Since then, industry forecasters have concurred that her work is nothing short of extraordinary.
Daniella was born in Johannesburg, South Africa, grew up in Maryland, and later attended the prestigious London College of Fashion. Once in London, she learned how to push the envelope on her own designs. In a recent phone interview she revealed that London designers Les Chiffoniers and the late, great Alexander McQueen "helped me to build a stronger sense of ambition and reconfirmed my love of the industry."

The hard work paid off. Daniella's graduate collection became one of just 27 selected by a panel of industry professionals (including celebrity designer Giles Deacon), to be featured during an exclusive press show at London's Royal Academy. Following that exposure, designer Henry Holland and buyers of ASOS.com (As Seen On Stars), chose Daniella's collection to be sold in an exclusive limited-edition live sale (the inventory sold out). Shortly thereafter, Vogue.com mentioned Daniella as "One to Watch" - and she is indeed.
Moving across the pond to launch her post-grad career in New York, Daniella began working with Proenza Schouler and Sari Gueron. Now, she has begun to deliver on her own. It was evident to those of us who attended her NYFW Fall '10 runway collection, that she has staying power beyond her television accolades. In her Fall line, she has incorporated luxe leathers, fluid silks and beautiful knits, in an array of romantic colors. I loved each piece and was extremely impressed that she even designed her own jewelry to accessorize the models.
For now, Daniella's line is commissioned on a per request basis. However, I'm certain we'll be seeing her elegant collections in high-end boutiques and department stores in the very near future.
Ports 1961 - Craeft: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week
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Thursday, February 11th: The Promenade was packed and lined with notable fashion connoisseurs, including Lynn Yaeger, down the middle to view the Ports 1961 Fall 2010 collection: Craeft.
The show began with a moment of silence for designer Alexander McQueen followed by a dimming of the lights. With a plume of smoke, the models took the catwalk, without pausing in front of photogs. The run of show included 47 ensembles, "exploring the relationship between discovery and invention," using vintage construction techniques combined with innovative textiles.
The result: a little bit Amelia Earhart, a little bit Flying Nun Sally Fields style, a tad Bob Mackie, and a pinch of futuristic industrial form.
The soothing color palette of Mulberry, Tobacco, Iris, Rosemary, Freesia, Chicory, Clover and Pepper was linked together with Sage and Ginger. However, it was the high-tech fabrics that highlighted the collection. By utilizing silk lame and metalized fibers woven into wools, a holographic shine was created which resembled molten liquid. Innovative textiles with aluminum, fused neoprene, heat sensitive laminates and bionic fabrics were used in contrast to canvases, tweeds, leathers, and velvet.
The Fall 2010 collection combined a Victorian silhouette with a futuristic-geometric lines, a nod to the past with a positive outlook towards the future.
*all photos by: Frazer Harrison/Getty Images North America
DVF's Elisa Palomino Debuts Her Own Label at NYFW: Moda Operandi
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Mochino Cheap & Chic, John Galliano, Dior, Cavalli and Diane von Furstenberg: Elisa Palomino has influenced some of the biggest names in fashion and on February 17, 2010 she will debut her beautiful, eponymous line with a runway show during New York Fashion Week.
Growing up in Cuenca, Spain, a humble 15th century town, with a mother who was an acclaimed restorer of fine arts and a grandmother who was a habitué of Haute Couture, it's no wonder Elisa's dramatic aesthetic developed at an early age. Her passion for textiles progressed quite naturally, combining both extravagant prints along with heavily embellished exteriors.
Ms. Palomino received a masters degree in Fashion Design from St. Martins College of Art. Her classmates were made up of Antonio Berardi, Hussein Chalayn, and my favorite designer of all time, Alexander McQueen- or as I like to call him, Alexander The Greatest!
In 1995 Elisa's career started as the designer behind Moschino's Cheap & Chic collection. It was here where she cultivated the eccentric style of their 2nd line. Five years after designing for Moschino, powerhouse John Galliano recruited her to work for his own label, as well as, a collaboration with Dior. She was quickly chosen to be the head of the studio, and over the next eight years, her creativity helped the fashion house prosper.
Post Galliano, Elisa worked at Roberto Cavalli as Studio Director, before moving to The Big Apple to become the VP of Design at none other than, Diane von Furstenberg, a position she continues to embrace.
Fall 2010 will mark the season for Elisa's own label, Elisa Palomino... I can't wait to see what she has up her sleeve.

KiptonART: 2009 Favorites in Art, Style, Music and Film
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What has 2009 brought us? KiptonART explored not only the business of emerging artists, but the entire creative market encompassing art, music, fashion, film and soirées. 2009 -- the year of change -- has prepared art mavens for the coming decade. Reflecting on the seasons past here are influential events that are sure to impact the coming year(s) ahead. Let the countdown begin!
#10. Let us get the dreaded term out of the way: recession. The weed that spewed from our credit fertilizer haunted the globe thereby weakening an already challenged art arena. As third quarter trudged around the market gradually rallied amidst the buzz surrounding the early November Sotheby’s New York auction of an Andy Warhol painting, sold at $43.8 million.
However, morale was low due to a failed auction held at New York’s Christie’s the same week. This may have left a dark cloud brooding over art auctions had it not been for $48 million dollar sale of a drawing by the old master Raphael at Christie’s London in early December.
#9. Early December opened with Art Basel in Miami. The lack of sun and party funds left the majority of attendees interested in only one thing, the fairs which fared far better than last year. High sales made gallery representatives giddy, while on-lookers enjoyed works by international talents. Much on displayed felt familiar and sellers were fixated on those that they knew would bring in cash flow. In this economy, why not? Though events were at a minimum, KiptonART hosted an event with Whitewall Magazine and attended parties and events over the four day fair including a highlight of the Lanvin boutique opening. In November, Art Dubai drew significant crowds and attention.
#8. Parties elsewhere seemed to have been doing just fine this year (though there was a definite lack of food trays circulating). KiptonART threw several with partners such as Longchamp and Saks Fifth Avenue and even debuted on MTV. The Coalition for the Homeless held their annual ArtWalk Benefit raising $650,000, their most successful event to date. Patrons attended all the major museum galas from the Metropolitan Costume Institute to the Frick Young Fellows. However, the Whitney Studio Party was said to have been the best of them all, where A-list New York supporters wore sponsored Versace gowns to the nines.
#7. Spring/Summer 2010 Fashion Week set the standards for a new era: digital prints, nude hues, and underwear-as-outwear. Chado Ralph Rucci gave the show of New York’s season with a flawless presentation. Finally be rid of the dirty indie look and step into fantastic crab claw Alexander McQueen heels, as Mrs. Gaga did in her epic video “Bad Romance.”
#6. Undoubtedly, Lady Gaga is this year top musician, bringing glam rock gender bending aesthetic backs from the trendy 80’s grave of on stage Madonna masturbation and Freddy Mercury. Opposite, of Gaga is the baby-face Taylor Swift who swiftly swept up the awards at every ceremony she attended (and didn’t for that matter as she won several AMA’s while preparing for an upcoming tour in London). KiptonART continued to collaborate with emerging musicians Joyce DiDonato, Saeunn Thorsteinsdottir, Eldar and Orba Squara. Most heartbreaking was the loss of music legend and pop king Michael Jackson.
To Read The Top 5, please visit KiptonART Online Magazine
Photo 1: Kipton Cronkite attends the 2009 Whitney Museum Gala at The Whitney Museum of American Art on October 19, 2009 in New York City. (October 18, 2009- Photo by Jemal Countess/Getty Images North America)
Photo 2: Aqua Art Miami Basel entrance
Photo 3: Chado Ralph Rucci's incredible Spring/Summer 2010 collection
Merry Christmas To All and To All A Good Night
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Lauren Rae Levy: Celeb Stylist Holiday Style Guide
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With all the Holiday festivities and New Year's Eve approaching, I was beginning to feel a bit overwhelmed with all my fashion options. It seemed that each dress was more fantastic then the next, which precipitated the conundrum, How do I wear that and with what?
I turned to my dear friend and Celebrity Stylist, Lauren Rae Levy, to help me wade through my seasonal style stress.
LRL's #1 tip:
DO get into the holiday spirit and take risks.
DON’T compete with the Christmas tree- the tree always wins.
With that spot on advice in mind, LRL chose a few magical looks to assure that any girl would look her best, but not out-sparkle the boughs of holly.
CLICK on the images below and find out: who, what, where, and how to be the belle of the ball.
Be & D: Who What Wear
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If you’re anything like me, without question, I despise spending half of my paycheck on a handbag that everyone ends up sporting on their arm. I don’t do monograms, I don’t do ordinary, and I surely wouldn’t invest in a handbag made from anything less than the finest of leathers (Duh). There are, however, a handful of designers who’s arm candy resides in my closest season after season; Alexander McQueen, Michelle Vale, Kara Ross, and Be & D (to name my top four go- to’s).
If I’m looking to throw on a simple understated chill outfit (i.e. Genetic Denim Shane Jeans, Blue Life U- neck, Loeffler Randall oversized blazer paired with my Pour La Vic’s Angelique platts) I’m going to reach for a bag that’s vibrant, chic, playful and classy… I’m going with one of my Be & D bags.
Known for starting their incredible handbag line on a kitchen table in Brooklyn, New York, Be Inthavong and Steve Dumain are the dynamic duo who’s contending artistic individuality allow them
to create their lavish, innovative, bold handbag collection; Be & D.
Since purchasing the Turquoise and Cognac Gold Studded Garbo Bag back in '04, I’ve been a loyal contributor to the economics of Be & D. I’m not the only one involved in a fervid love affair with these bags. Charlize Theron, Jessica Biel, Penelope Cruz, Liv Tyler, Blake Lively, Eva Longoria and dare I say it, Katy Perry, have all been spotted numerous times carrying these stunning pieces.
Although studs may be all the rage this season, Steve and Be were the first to set the bar with bold studding almost six years ago. All throughout Be & D’s color pallet, you can find vivacious fuchsias, scintillating greens, jewel-toned blues, radiant metallics, along with your staples- black, taupes and creamy whites. Each bag is handcrafted using ONLY the finest buttery leathers and elaborate, opulent exotics... even the hardware looks and feels swanky.
Their prices range from the high 5’s to about $1500 and worth every cent! These bags are made to withstand years, even decades, of wear. They are the bags that women keep in pristine condition, then subsequently pass down to their daughters. Any one of Be & D’s pieces will look just as incredible “vintage”, as they do brand new.
You’ll see me rocking my Cossette satchel in green python for years to come.
You can view the entire collection at Be & D, where you can purchase them directly on their site or at Shop Bop, Nordstom, and Saks.
Industry Background*:
Designers Be Inthavong and Steve Dumain started Be & D in 2004, at the kitchen table of a Greenpoint, Brooklyn loft. It was here that the duo created their very first design, the Garbo, modeled after a vintage bag found on holiday in a Beirut market. The bag quickly became an international phenomenon, catapulting Be & D onto the scene as a new force in the luxury market. Inthavong and Dumain believe strongly in the hands-on tradition of storied European luxury houses and have re-created this same practice in their Garment District design studio.
They personally train their sewers, teaching them the intricacies that define Be & D and work alongside them to ensure that every piece is created with the strictest attention to detail and quality.
In 2007, Be & D debuted its first shoe collection. The designers acknowledged that Italy was still the best place to make small quantities of expertly crafted shoes, and traveled to Tuscany to work side-by-side with skilled artisans to help realize their vision, continuing the same approach they use in their New York factory. With its signature gold soles and variety of heel heights, the line was created to compliment and merchandise with each main season’s core offerings.
In addition to their seasonal collections, Be & D has collaborated with ready-to-wear designers, including Ruffian and most recently Doo.Ri (A/W 09), in developing accessories for their New York Fashion Week runway presentations. In the pipeline for 2009 are additional strategic partnership opportunities with like-minded luxury companies both within and outside of the fashion industry.
Be & D Co-Founders/Designers:
Be Inthavong is a native of Laos, where his family has owned a silk mill for over 200 years. After immigrating to the United States at age eight, Be began sketching, and the influence of his legacy was apparent from the first drawing. After graduating from Texas Christian University with a degree in Biology, Be was drawn back into the world of fashion. With no formal training, Be spent the next 10 years honing his innate skills in accessories design and production as co-designer and owner of a hair accessories company. Longing to further explore and experiment with textiles, his first love, Be channeled his parents entrepreneurial spirit and set out on his own. A chance meeting with fellow creative force Steve Dumain would ignite the spark that led to the establishment of Be & D.
Steve Dumain was raised on a horse farm in upstate New York. Growing up, his unique sense of style was born out of his obsession with rummaging through local thrift stores, where he also accumulated a collection of antique luggage. After graduating from the University of Vermont, with a degree in International Business, Spanish and Art, Steve lived and traveled in Europe and South America. It was there he explored his fascination with fine art and sculpture - and the idea that an artist’s hands could create infinite possibilities. He returned to New York and became established in the film industry as a gifted writer, producer and talent manager. After meeting Be, he realized his lifelong passions were too great to ignore.
* http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Be&D
-Article by Sam Jones for Scene B Seen


