Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week
Fan-tab-u-lous Fall '10 Faves: Moda Operandi
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So now that Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is over and my life is somewhat back to Normal, I wanted to recap on some of my Favorites for Fall.
The passion that the clothing exuded for Autumn was nothing short of awe inspiring. The models, covered in rich colors, opulent textures and dramatic lines, seemed to just rove down the runway... leaving attendees speechless.
Designers once again embraced a multitude of leathers, furs and shearlings pairing them with extravagant knits. Actually, I was surprised not to see any PETA demonstrators picketing in front of Bryant this year.
Although I may not have bumped into protesters at the tents, I did rub elbows with: Matt Dillion, Justin Timberlake and Jessica Biel, Michelle Trachtenberg, Whitney Port, Carmen Electra, Kate Bosworth, Whoopie Goldberg, Amanda Peat, Rosario Dawson, Kerry Washington, Hayden Panettiere, Ed Westwick, Molly Sims, Liv Tyler, Kelly Osbourne (who, btw, lost an insane amount of weight and looks fanfrickingtastic! I saw her at Nanette Lepore, and don't think that I didn't tell her how awesome she looks.) Um..... Oh, I also bumped in to Sarah Jessica Parker at Halston and introduced myself as the original Samantha Jones.
And now, without further ado and, in no particular order:
My Fall Faves:
Anna Sui
Rodarte

J. Mendel

Jason Wu

Dennis Basso

Proenza Schuler

Prabal Gurung

Burberry Prorsum

ADAM

Araks

Bibhu Mohapatra

Alice + Olivia

Chris Benz

Cushinie & Ochs

Phillip Lim 3.1

Thakoon

Rachel Roy

Haute Hippie

Rag & Bone

Alexander Wang

Elisa Palomino

Daniel Vosovic

Elise Overland

Katie Gallagher

Pamella Roland

Erro

I can't wait to get dressed!
xx
Sam Jones
*photo 1 by Bryan Bedder/Getty Images North America: Kelly Osbourne (R) at Nanette Lepore Fall 2010 Fashion Show, February 17, 2010 at The Promenade.
*all runway photos courtesy of Zimbio.com, except Haute Hippie, Thakoon and Rachel Roy
So Long Bryant Park… Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Review Fall 2010
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The fine farewell to a central locale boasted new trends for Fall 2010 and a consistent theme of a hopeful look to the future.
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week for Fall 2010 sponsored 81 official fashion shows over the course of 8 days, 12 being off-site. This does not include the numerous super-ingenious independent designer shows that concurrently take place. Though collectively, one thing is for sure: Fashion is back and style is the new black.
Now, as New Yorkers, we are somewhat on the cutting-edge of the Fashion World, therefore some of the trends this season we've seen before, yet, some we have not.
Trends for Fall: Military, 1920-30's aviator pants and bomber jackets, visible layering, structured shoulders (a slimmer version of the 80's shoulder pad), jeweled embellishments, belting to expose layers, a-symmetry, intricate back details, and ruffle details.
Textiles: Unique blended fabrics, lace, mesh, chunky knits, shimmery metallics, hounds-tooth (my fave), plaid, color textured stockings, shimmery stockings, and patch-working chunky materials with delicate fabrics.
Accessories: Fitted thigh-high boots and stockings (often layered), leather bomber caps, chunky knit scarves, geometric gold or silver rings, bracelets and necklaces, and while most designers paired their collection with various length leather gloves, I became partial to the tight forearm cuff in metallics and army printed mesh.
Conclusion: So long Bryant Park... so long fashion drought... so long decade with no name... Bienvenue MBFW at Lincoln Center...
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2010 Collections:
3.1 Phillip Lim, Academy of Art University, ADAM by Adam Lippes, Alexandre Herchcovitch, Andy & Debb, Anna Sui, Arise Magazine African Collective- Part III, Badgley Mischka, BCBGMaxazria, Brian Reyes, Calvin Klein Collection Men’s, Calvin Klein Collection Women’s, Carlos Miele, Carolina Herrera, Charlotte Ronson, Christian Siriano, Custo Barcelona, Cynthia Steffe, Davidelfin, Dennis Basso, Diane von Furstenberg, Diesel Black Gold, DKNY, Donna Karan Collection, Duckie Brown, Ecco Domani- Fashion Foundation, Elie Tahari, Farah Angsana, Fashion For Relief- Haiti NYC, Georges Chakra, Herve Leger, Irina Shabayeva, Issac Mizrahi, J. Mendel, Jill Stuart, La Perla, Lacoste, Leifdottir
Lela Rose, Luca Luca, Mackage, Malandrino, Max Azria, Michael Angel, Michael Kors, Mik Cire by Eric Kim, Milly by Michelle Smith, Mimkho, Monique Lhuillier, Naheem Khan, Nanette Lepore, Narcisco Rodriguez, Nicole Miller, Pamella Roland, Perry Ellis, Ports 1961, Prabal Gurung, Project Runway, Ralph Lauren, Rebecca Taylor, Reed Krakoff, Richard Chai, Tadashi Shoji, The Heart Truth’s Red Dress Collection 2010, Thuy, Tibi, Tommy Hilfiger, Toni Francesc, Toni Maticevski, Tonycohen, Tory Burch, Tracy Reese, Trias, Twinkle by Wenlan, Vassilios Kostetsos, Venexiana, Vera Wang, Y-3, Yeohlee, Yigal Azrouel, and Zac Posen
*All photos courtesy of Modern Glossy by Stevyn Llewellyn except those listed below.
Frazer Harrison/Getty Images North America: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Badgley Mischka, Carolina Herrera, Diane Von Furstenberg, J. Mendel, Max Azria, Michael Kors, Narciso Rodriguez, Project Runway, Tadashi Shoji, and Tommy Hilfiger.
Jemal Countess/Getty Images North America: Alexandre Herchcovitch, Brian Reyes, Carlos Miele, Davidelfin, Dennis Basso, Elie Tahari, Isaac Mizrahi, Lela Rose, Milly By Michelle Smith, Monique Lhuillier, Naeem Khan, Pamella Roland, Tracy Reese, and Vera Wang.
Bryan Bedder/Getty Images North America: AnnaLynne McCord attends the Jill Stuart Fall 2010 Fashion Show at the New York Public Library.
Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images North America: At 275 Hudson Street: Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Men's Collection, Diesel Black Gold, Ralph Lauren, and at the Park Avenue Armory Y-3.
Stefan Gosatti/Getty Images North America: Designer Zac Posen (C) on the runway at the Zac Posen Fall 2010 Fashion Show at the Altman Building, Leifsdottir at Prince George Ballroom, Mimkho, Nanette Lepore, Tory Burch, and Yeohlee Fall 2010 Fashion Show at 225 West 35th Street.
Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images North America: DKNY and Donna Karan Collection at 711 Greenwich Street.
Scott Wintrow/Getty Images North America: Malandrino at 711 Greenwich Street.
Photo Agency: Naomi Campbell's Fashion For Relief For Haiti.
FW 2010 House Photography Team: Keith Lew, Ming Han Chung, Mark Roboff and Brian Dowling: Toni Francesc.
c. marchuska: The Green Shows
+Wednesday, February 17th: c. marchuska Fall 2010 Runway Show.
c. marchuska presented it's latest eco-fabulous fashion collection this past Wednesday as part of The Green Shows - Eco Fashion Week, during New York Fashion Week.
The sustainable line is a 25 piece collection including jackets, leggings, skirts, tops, shorts, dresses and skirts. "We added in wovens and texture with hemp silk, organic cotton twill, organic cotton gauze and soy jersey. The inspiration is East Coast rocker chic…" explains Christine Marchuska, CEO and Founder of c. marchuska.
This fun, comfy and conscious collection breathes a fresh approach to Green Fashion with its flirty and hip pieces. A little bit hipster and a little Debbie Harry. The collection ranges from everyday cool to sophisticated silk dresses and fitted jackets.
Conclusion: Finally! Bye-bye Crocs, Birkenstocks, atrocious patterned hemp frocks and Hello c. marchuska eco-luxe apparel.
*photos by Paul O. Colliton
J. Mendel: Fall 2010 Presentation
+Thursday, February 18th: J. Mendel Fall 2010 Presentation in the Salon at Bryant Park.
Layering, unique blending of fabrics, and draping were consistent elements throughout all of the shows during this season's Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. These were also key to the J. Mendel Fall 2010 Collection. However, what separates The House of J. Mendel from other designers, is the way in which they utilize those techniques with luxurious fabrics and furs to emphasis of the female form by giving definition and shape to the body.
Gilles Mendel has reinterpreted elements of nature intertwined within a downtown scene by the use of couture fabrics such as; silk faille, mousseline, jacquard, satin, which are paired with metallic tweeds, fur and hints of leather to create a vibrant downtown-chic look. "It always starts with color and texture," explains Mendel of his inspiration for the collection. "The images from Ryan McGinley's Moonmilk series were so beautiful and organic."
Of course, the evening gowns were breathtaking. Deep reds, Prussian blues and volcanic greens seemed to melt onto the models, elongating the feminine form.
Despite the thick crowd of celebrities, photographers, journalists and buyers, the J. Mendel Fall 2010 Collection was viewed the only way one should experience the artistry and sophistication that is the House of J. Mendel: Presented.
Nary Manivong: Fall / Winter 2010 Presentation
+Wednesday, February 17th: Nary Manivong Fall / Winter 2010 presentation at Audi Forum during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.
Fifteen models perched like mod statues on a circular rotating stage to present Nary Manivong's latest collection styled by Ally Hilfiger.
Press and guests were ecstatic about the show consisting of mainly shift dresses and various styled skirts. The mixture of wool, lace and abstract printed silk seemed effortless amongst a simple palette of black, plum wine, mocha and white. Ms. Hilfiger captured the polished feel of the collection with the use of light netting as hairpieces and over the models' eyes to complete the sculptural yet fluid look. And yes, Papa Hilfiger attended showing his always present support.
Conclusion: Triple-G! Gorgeous collection, gorgeous presentation, and gorgeous models.
Toni Francesc: Backstage and Runway - Fall 2010
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Tuesday, February 16th: Toni Francesc - Artificial Life - Fall 2010 Backstage and Runway Show in the Salon at Bryant Park.
From the make-up to working closely with his house photographer, Keith Lew, to the final presentation on the runway, Toni Francesc knows exactly what he wants. Scurrying back and forth from make-up/hair to wardrobe with a smile, Francesc makes sure every detail is executed to a T that is his vision.
For the Fall 2010 collection, Artificial Life, Francesc takes on the familiar motif of Man vs. Machine, "offering a critical perspective of the future without overlooking the roots of the past and the world of handcrafted creation." However, his big question is, how does one discover ones' real self amongst a cold and technological world?
The collection exemplifies industrial elements both in it's rust metal color story and angular shapes. In it's entirety, the run of show seemed to depict Man's failing to find the Self within a technologically advanced society. A bit of a downer, but Francesc's ideology is quite evident and perhaps lends itself to seek hope and change for the future.
*To view full Runway Coverage, please visit Keith Lew Photography
*Backstage photos by Britten Heft
*Photo 2 by Keith Lew: Toni Francesc and Fern Mallis
*Runway Photography by the Toni Francesc FW 10 House Photography Team: Keith Lew, Ming Han Chung, Mark Roboff and Brian Dowling.
Thuy: Fall 2010
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Tuesday, February 16th: Thuy Fall 2010 Runway Show in the Salon at Bryant Park.
For the Thuy Fall 2010 collection, chunky embellishments and opulent fabrics reflected the interesting palette of golds and vibrant jewel tones of deep amethyst, ruby reds, and dark peridot. The details of each of the 29 looks, played within the textiles to create a "spirit of controlled Gothic romanticism."
The styling, by GK Reid, included a different twist to puckering, belting, and wrapping, lending a new approach to ready-to-wear.
*feature photos courtesy of Modern Glossy by Stevyn Llewellyn.
*all gallery photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images North America

Allison Parris: Fall 2010 Collection Receives Standing Ovation
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Tuesday, February 16th: Allison Parris returned to New York Fashion Week this season debuting her phenomenal Fall / Winter 2010 ready-to-wear collection at Skylight West.
Opening to a packed house of celebrities, buyers and press, the models strutted down the runway to a hip hop re-mix of string quartet music by DJ Inbetween, and closed to a well-deserved standing ovation.
Antique brass, vintage pearls, net, sequins, and leather incorporated effortlessly with the use of silk, cashmere, wool, and satin textiles. The romantic palette combination of soft creamy oaks, champagnes, and whites, emphasizing the overall lush and light feel of the line. The pieces were showcased without accessories, drawing the focal point to the extensive use of hand-embroidery and chain appliqué.
Mario Diab Salon added to the romantic feel of the collection with their voluminous, curled hairstyles, and beauty direction was handled by Gregg Hubbard, who finished out the fresh look with dramatic eyelashes.
In keeping with Allison Parris’ commitment to eco-responsibility, the line uses sustainable, organic and/or re-purposed fabrics without sacrificing style. The line also uses recycled PET satin, made from recycled soda bottles, to line many of its pieces.
Perry Ellis Fall 2010: Backstage and Front Row
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Monday, February 15th: Perry Ellis Backstage and Front Row at Bryant Park.
*Backstage photos by James Palmar
*Front Row photos by Jason Kempin/Getty Images North America
Pamella Roland: Fall 2010
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Tuesday, February 16th: Pamella Roland Fall 2010 runway show in the Salon at Bryant Park.
With the lovely actress Alfre Woodard, wearing Pamela Roland of course, to my left and photographer Nigel Barker to my right, I was front and center to witness the stunning classic Venetian glamour of the Fall 2010 collection by Pamella Roland.
Rich jewel tones, metallics and textured blacks paired with sleek designs emphasised Roland's keen eye for the perfect silhouette. The collection embodies the classic romantic beauty and mysterious nature of the city [Venice] while integrating a modern edge and structured dimension.
From the shift dresses, to elegant suits, to the jaw-dropping gowns- the collection speaks to the "confidence and empowerment of today's woman."
Crystals, pleats, satin piping, chiffon millefiori embroidery, pickstiched seams, jewel encrusted legwarmers, organza, beaded armbands, mink and fox cuffs, deco beaded waist panel, and black beaded tulle overlay- are just a few examples of Roland's keen attention to extraordinary detail which enhance the lines and intricate construction.
The finale Ivory Silk Faille Wedding Gown with floral applique train exuded an exhilarated gasp from the entire auditorium. With grace... and a sigh of relief with a smile, the model took a moment to turn the train and continue her glide back down the catwalk.
The show closed with Roland pulling her family from the crowd to complete her walk down the runway. It was then that Ms. Woodard turned to me and said, "I love her even more now!"
*all photos by Bryan Bedder/Getty Images North America





