So now that Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is over and my life is somewhat back to Normal, I wanted to recap on some of my Favorites for Fall.

The passion that the clothing exuded for Autumn was nothing short of awe inspiring. The models, covered in rich colors, opulent textures and dramatic lines, seemed to just rove down the runway... leaving attendees speechless.

Designers once again embraced a multitude of leathers, furs and shearlings pairing them with extravagant knits. Actually, I was surprised not to see any PETA demonstrators picketing in front of Bryant this year.

Although I may not have bumped into protesters at the tents, I did rub elbows with: Matt Dillion, Justin Timberlake and Jessica Biel, Michelle Trachtenberg, Whitney Port, Carmen Electra, Kate Bosworth, Whoopie Goldberg, Amanda Peat, Rosario Dawson, Kerry Washington, Hayden Panettiere, Ed Westwick, Molly Sims, Liv Tyler, Kelly Osbourne (who, btw, lost an insane amount of weight and looks fanfrickingtastic! I saw her at Nanette Lepore, and don't think that I didn't tell her how awesome she looks.) Um..... Oh, I also bumped in to Sarah Jessica Parker at Halston and introduced myself as the original Samantha Jones.

And now, without further ado and, in no particular order:

My Fall Faves:

Anna Sui

Rodarte

J. Mendel

Jason Wu

Dennis Basso

Proenza Schuler

Prabal Gurung

Burberry Prorsum

ADAM

Araks

Bibhu Mohapatra

Alice + Olivia

Chris Benz

Cushinie & Ochs

Phillip Lim 3.1

Thakoon

Rachel Roy

Haute Hippie

Rag & Bone

Alexander Wang

Elisa Palomino

Daniel Vosovic

Elise Overland

Katie Gallagher

Pamella Roland

Erro

I can't wait to get dressed!

xx
Sam Jones

*photo 1 by Bryan Bedder/Getty Images North America: Kelly Osbourne (R) at Nanette Lepore Fall 2010 Fashion Show, February 17, 2010 at The Promenade.

*all runway photos courtesy of Zimbio.com, except Haute Hippie, Thakoon and Rachel Roy

Fact: The average American woman weighs in at around 163 pounds and wears a size 14. So why is it that when it comes to fashion, the average woman is treated like an aberration? Can you even think of one high end boutique that carries a size larger then a ten... if that? Is it possible that all of these store owners are just snobs who would rather cater to a skinnier clientele then perhaps triple their sales by selling garments to fat chicks? Ummm... No.

Today's most revered designers simply do not create their designs taking larger women into consideration-period. The truth is that the fashion elite have never thought of heavy set women as being fashion forward. Take Karl Lagerfeld for example: Back in 2004, Lagerfeld (who by the by spent most of his adult life battling a major weight problem), created a capsule line for H&M. In an interview with Harper's Bazaar, he voiced his discontentment when H&M produced his designs in larger sizes:

"What I designed was fashion for slender slim people. The body has to be impeccable- If it's not, buy SMALLER sizes and LESS food." So, has Lagerfeld since changed his critical tune?

Hitting news stands on Janurary 14th, the avant-garde fashion publication V Magazine will feature plus size models in their Size Issue- celebrating women of all shapes and sizes. The issue will include a photo spread  titled Coco A Go-Go, where international burlesque dancer, Miss Dirty Martini, is photographed wearing accessories by Chanel and Lagerfeld... as well as pasties, cut-out bras, garter belts and stockings. Surprisingly, this was shot in the House of Chanel by none other than the Fat Loather himself; Mr. Karl Lagerfeld.

Also featured in this issue is One Size Fits All by Terry Richardson. A side by side comparison of Jacquelyn Jablonski, one of the industry's new faves, who's measurements are: 5'9 32/24/34 and plus size model & author of Hungry, Crystal Renn, who's measurements are: 5'9 36/31/41. Both models are shot in similar poses wearing the same ensembles. The purpose of this spread: to prove that you don't have to be a size zero to pull off these looks.

V's creative director, the talented Stephen Gan, says that he's more in tune then ever to what bigger models can offer. He put his money where his mouth is with this Size Issue, which also includes a high-fashion photo shoot with Norwegian fashion photographer Solve Sundsbo, capturing women who seemed eager to show off their thicker gams, fuller bellies, bigger breasts and even (dare I say it) their love handles.

Although I'm ecstatic that fashion publications are featuring more realistically shaped women in their issues I'm curious.. why now? Why are editors like Cindi Leive of Glamour mag finally deciding to work with voluptuous models when for so long they've been fixated on super thin waifs? What prompted this change? I mean women have always come in different shapes and sizes haven't they? Is this just a temporary ploy to draw more attention to their publication or will these magazines continue to show various body types?  What's next...  will Mattel start to produce a curvier Barbie?

I wonder if fashion spreads like this one will help to persuade high end designers to up their sizes in production. Will women who wear a size 14 finally able to rock Alexander Wang or Rodarte, or will they be forced to continue to shop at stores like Layne Bryant and Avenue?

There is a huge market for bigger sizes and has been for years, yet, not one women's RTW designer has brought anything to the table thus far. Funny thing is that most of today's lauded fashion labels are designed by gay men and judging by the way their garments lay, are cut to fit skinny boys. (Except of course you, Mr. Kors)

I have to say that I find it so ironic that the dynamic duo of Rodarte, sisters Laura Mulleavy and Kate Mulleavy (who clearly wouldn't be able to get a leg into any of the garments that they design), wouldn't make an effort to manufacture larger sizes? Really? They are real women with curves who create killer pieces, but they too turn their noses up to plus size women. Where is their conscious?

Even fast fashion chain Forever21 has cultivated a Plus Size category titled Faith21, offering a limited selection of their "knockoff looks" in larger sizes. Sadly, after doing some research for this editorial, I have only found ONE online sight that offers a decent fashion assortment for bigger gals: Missphit.com. Entrenched in the heart of L.A.'s rising world fashion scene, Missphit designs solely for the fashion forward girl who is selective with her fit. Missphit was created by husband-and-wife team Yul and Christina Kwon, as a result of years of listening to what curvy women want. Their sizes range from 1x-3x, their clothing is fashion forward and inexpensive.

Maybe we'll start seeing more life sized models in our favorite mags. Maybe designers will step up to the plate and produce their collections in larger sizes. And maybe, just maybe, 2010 will be the year when the fashion industry incorporates the mantra: Real Women Have Curves God Damn It!

When it comes to clothing, fashionable women have it so much easier than our male counterparts. Think about it; we can walk into an upscale boutique, department store or order most of today’s fabulously futuristic frocks online from sites like net-a-porter, Forwardforward.com and Luisaviaroma.com. Labels such as Balmain, Gareth Pugh, Haider Ackerman, Phi and Rodarte are taking women into the ultramodern by cultivating a post apocalyptic fashion climate, but what about our men? Besides Helmut and Rick, what other options do our fashion forward fella’s really have? I've found a designer who I think just might be able to help level the playing field:

In Aisce: Gaelic translation- in vain.

Brooklyn based designer Jona, has cultivated a powerful, feral, and gilded new men’s collection in aisce. The line which launched in 2009, is inspired by history and war heroes as imagined in a world in the way far out future.

It’s no wonder why this new label is blowing up in Japan. The designs are raw, with asymmetrical cuts and details that are both unusual and wearable- a giant leap outside of the “commercial” men’s fashion box.

Jona hand constructs each one of his minimalistic pieces using top of the line leather and fabric, which is primarily sourced in the US. in aisce utilizes a cool and simple color palette consisting of black, white and grey, with a smattering of neutrals. 

This collection is extremely sexy; laid back, but definitely does not lack sophistication. I have no doubt that we will be hearing a lot more about In Aisce in the not so distant future.

Not too long ago, consumers were only dipping their feet into the prêt-à-porter avant-garde fashion current. Now, we are all practically diving in head first. Just look at a few of today's trendsetters: Vivian Westwood, Karl Lagerfeld, Rick Owens, Alexander Wang, and Rodarte. Just a few years ago, their collections may have been considered “a bit too over the top” for mainstream fashion. These days, they are household names and it seems as though the entire industry’s direction is leaning toward that dark romantic/neo-gothic aesthetic.

Enter Tim Burton and Jean Paul Gaultier's love chid: Katie Gallagher......

Katie’s beautiful and eccentric collection, turns the latest avant-garde trends up a notch, generating a seductive and ethereal edge.

Each piece is raw, yet polished, with great attention to construction. Katie keeps her color palette dark, utilising mostly shades of black and grey- remaining true to her glamour/grunge vision. With her sculptured shoulders and strategic cuts that wrap a women’s body, Katie has an intrinsic knack for contouring her garments to give the illusion of an elongated, sleek feminine frame…

even when there isn't one.

Katie's introspective collection is provoking, sensual and altogether fascinating. She is indeed, a designer ahead of her time. I absolutely love this collection- it is sharp, chic and fabulously futuristic!

To see exclusive SBS picts from the S/S 2010 Fashion Presentation, please click HERE

To view Katie Gallagher's 2010 Collection and Sketches, please click HERE

Industry Background:

Katie Gallagher was raised in a small farm town in Pennsylvania and graduated from Rhode Island School of Design. She worked as an apprentice at Anna Sui and at threeASFOUR, where she continued as a freelance pattern-maker.   

Katie's collection uses a variety of luxury fabrics, treated leathers, soft cashmere mixed with washed jersey, stretch lycra, and light, treated textiles, to create a layered collection offset with chain detailing. Leggings and trousers with curving seams, various types of treated leather jackets, and organza and silk tops with unusual cuts, sculptural forms, and draping techniques make up the basis of the 22 look, 70+ separate collection.

Katie was inspired by the dramatic, hyper-curated beauty of Butoh dancers, and the dystopia of the  low-life and high-tech world of cyberpunk classics like William Gibson’s, Neuromancer, and Neal Stephenson’s, Snow Crash.